Hi there sports fans
11.35am, November 24. I rushed into Jesus Maria this morning with not enough time to brush my teeth or get out of my pyjamas. Supposedly the bus was coming in 5 minutes but it never came. But it was one of those situations where you can´t go and brush your teeth because then you´ll miss the bus. So I grunned and barred it.
I finished reading Homer´s Odeyseus last night, which was a ripper of a story. Now I´m reading Jane Eyre. It´s Reuben´s copy, and I have to finish it before we part ways next week.
So, a bit more than a week to go. How am I feeling? Hmmmm. I have been a bit flat over the last few days. I do not have any energy at the house that I´m living in.
In my life it has never mattered that I am female. It´s never impacted upon me. Here it´s like I´m walking around naked. It´s a shit thing to feel. I get stared at all the time (in a house of 30 guys). Even when I give classic ¨puck off¨looks, and ignore people, I can still feel eyeballs on my head. It´s a bad thing to feel for so long and slowly it eats away at me.
And I have found myself in a pickle. I don´t want my gender to matter. So for that to happen, I have to get to know them as if I were a guy...which means spending time with them and getting past the obvious initial difference. But I can´t stand to be with them (the workers at the house, not the ´chicos´with the disabilities) so therefore I actively distance myself from them. Ah! Woe is me. It´s a challenging situation and it would be interesting to see how other people dealt with it. The problem would be solved if I had the company of another woman my age so we could share it. But no one else there understands how I feel.
I am looking forward to gaining distance from the house at Ascochinga and trying to nut out all of those emotions that I felt and how I could have dealt with the situation better. At the moment it´s like it´s all swarming around me and clouding my vision and in the middle I just feel battered.
Moving on
This coming weekend is my last in Cordoba. I have myself a list of all of the things that I want to accomplish, things that I haven´t done before now. Rosie is staying in student accomodation and it would be great to stay with her and experience that life.
Ah ha! Now there are two Rosies. My other friend Rosie is coming around and hopefully I will travel with her for a few weeks in Mendoza and then meet up with another friend Emma in Buenos Aires. I can´t wait to begin this solo travel, apart from the little bubble that I´m in now.
The higos and moras (figs and mulberries) are out. It reminds me a lot of home. Disco, the supermarket, now has Christmas decorations out too and there´s another feel in the air. It seems as though going home for Christmas is the best time of year to go home.
There has been heaps of rain here as well, which has turned everything green. Incredible, really. I hardly recognise the place. Reuben and I decided to sleep outside on Saturday night, por al rio (by the river) and unfortunately we got misted on hardcore. We shared a bottle of red...were thinking of sleep by 3am, but then by 5 I was completely saturated and decided to call it in.
I had a wonderful day last week picking mulberries in the sunshine with two of the chicos. We sang together and got stained faces together. I could talk with them without having to really think hard about what I was saying, and found that it just flowed out of me.
Two weekends ago Reuben and I went to La Cumbrecita, a pueblo peatonal (pedestrian-only) village nestled amongst the pines of the Sierra Cordobas. It was a wonderful day (no more) of hiking and exploring deserted waterholes and waterfalls. Also we got treated to a wondful DESAYUNO GRATIS yes please full of fresh fruit and criollitos and medialunas and tea and coffee. All very pleasant.
Now I am off to work on a scholarhip application.
Goodbye friends.
I will write soon when my head is perhaps in a better place.
Love love!
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
Sunday, November 15, 2009
jajajajajajaja
Yes yes yes hello
Wowie so a bit has happened since Uruguay, and it seems that my time here is wrapping up and in my mind it´s all coming too quickly.
Reuben and I performed the puppet play in the late afternoon sun under the big tree in the courtyard. The chicos loved it. I was playing the part of Luis, one of the chicos, who doesn´t talk but rather makes very distinct noises. I got them perfected and he was just beaming with pride. His face was classic- this old man absolutely overcome with joy and giving a big gummy smile. Usually I find him pretty annoying, but it was good to be able to be distanced by the performance and still be having fun together.
However one thing I do find disconcerting is the lack of praise I get for doing things and the loads of praise that Reuben gets doing the same things. It´s as if he´s done it by himself!! It´s happened with cooking and also this play. I don´t make a big deal of it, but it makes me a little sad on the inside. Oh wells, such comes from being in a completely male-focused country, I suppose. I don´t agree with it but I think the only thing I can do is suck it up.
I have just spent the last few days in Villa Allende, back at the orphanage with Jess, Rosie and Iona. As always it was swell to see them again, and to be able to laze without feeling slobby. Surrounded by guys all the time often I feel that my relaxation time is actually me just being lazy. Not with the girls though.
The kids are pretty funny, but really intense. I suppose that´s stereotyped, living in an orphanage. Yesterday arvo I was having a siesta because I wasn´t feeling so flash and the kids were banging against the barred window and yelling. I told them to go away because I was feeling tired and they opened up the window (from the outside) and started throwing leaves and branches and sticks onto me. OH MY LORD! They have irritation nailed. They were like monkeys against the cage. The girls are amazingly patient with the kids and are still really kind even when they´re fed up. I suppose they have learnt how to deal with it after three odd months.
This morning Rosie and Jess and I came into Cordoba. They have now left the orphanage forever!!! They are so excited about it. It´s been a good experience for them I think but also they have had a pretty tough time there. They have survived nits, never-ending colds, disgusting bathrooms, cold showers, conjunctivitis, and sharing a tiny room between three. I definitely salute them! They´re off to do a language course in Cordoba, before meeting up with their families and doing some travel separately. Iona is going to stay at the orphanage for a few weeks longer.
Reuben and I are off to the small little mountain village of La Cumbrecita. It´s nestled among the Sierra Cordobas and supposedly there´s heaps of amazing walks to precious little balnearios (swimming holes) and cascadas (waterfalls). We´re only there for a day and a half, so just a quiet little getaway. Michael is in Chile at the moment.
So I have a month left! EEEEKKk!!!! I will continue to keep you posted.
I hope you´re all well...was there a heatwave in Aus?
Lots of love!
G
Wowie so a bit has happened since Uruguay, and it seems that my time here is wrapping up and in my mind it´s all coming too quickly.
Reuben and I performed the puppet play in the late afternoon sun under the big tree in the courtyard. The chicos loved it. I was playing the part of Luis, one of the chicos, who doesn´t talk but rather makes very distinct noises. I got them perfected and he was just beaming with pride. His face was classic- this old man absolutely overcome with joy and giving a big gummy smile. Usually I find him pretty annoying, but it was good to be able to be distanced by the performance and still be having fun together.
However one thing I do find disconcerting is the lack of praise I get for doing things and the loads of praise that Reuben gets doing the same things. It´s as if he´s done it by himself!! It´s happened with cooking and also this play. I don´t make a big deal of it, but it makes me a little sad on the inside. Oh wells, such comes from being in a completely male-focused country, I suppose. I don´t agree with it but I think the only thing I can do is suck it up.
I have just spent the last few days in Villa Allende, back at the orphanage with Jess, Rosie and Iona. As always it was swell to see them again, and to be able to laze without feeling slobby. Surrounded by guys all the time often I feel that my relaxation time is actually me just being lazy. Not with the girls though.
The kids are pretty funny, but really intense. I suppose that´s stereotyped, living in an orphanage. Yesterday arvo I was having a siesta because I wasn´t feeling so flash and the kids were banging against the barred window and yelling. I told them to go away because I was feeling tired and they opened up the window (from the outside) and started throwing leaves and branches and sticks onto me. OH MY LORD! They have irritation nailed. They were like monkeys against the cage. The girls are amazingly patient with the kids and are still really kind even when they´re fed up. I suppose they have learnt how to deal with it after three odd months.
This morning Rosie and Jess and I came into Cordoba. They have now left the orphanage forever!!! They are so excited about it. It´s been a good experience for them I think but also they have had a pretty tough time there. They have survived nits, never-ending colds, disgusting bathrooms, cold showers, conjunctivitis, and sharing a tiny room between three. I definitely salute them! They´re off to do a language course in Cordoba, before meeting up with their families and doing some travel separately. Iona is going to stay at the orphanage for a few weeks longer.
Reuben and I are off to the small little mountain village of La Cumbrecita. It´s nestled among the Sierra Cordobas and supposedly there´s heaps of amazing walks to precious little balnearios (swimming holes) and cascadas (waterfalls). We´re only there for a day and a half, so just a quiet little getaway. Michael is in Chile at the moment.
So I have a month left! EEEEKKk!!!! I will continue to keep you posted.
I hope you´re all well...was there a heatwave in Aus?
Lots of love!
G
Monday, November 2, 2009
Ur. U. Guay.
Yes it has come visa-expiration time. To combat this I have found myself outside of the embrace of the motherland, and instead into the rainy mitts of Montevideo, Uruguay! Who woulda thunk it.
November eh? Is that absurd to anybody else? Things have been going swell here. As I wrote before, last weekend was spent in Cordoba. I went out with the girlies till 8am both nights, a very easy feat when your night begins at 2am. Then returned to Ascochinga in time to watch the game between Boca and River, the nation´s most important futbol teams. El Clasico is pretty similiar to the Melbournite´s Grand Final. The place stops and people are swamping to pubs with tvs everywhere. Watching from Ascochinga had a really relaxed feel to it. Somehow I have signed up to being a Boca fan, perhaps having visited the place on a crappy tour bus for a few hours whilst in BA...however the deed is done and now, supposedly, I am a life-long fan. River scored early and defintely were the better team, however Boca scored in the second half leading to a draw. How disappointing.
On Thursday we left Ascochinga (again) to venture to Rosario, a town 300ks from BA along the Rio Paraná. We came close to Rosario on our way to Iguazu, but didn´t pass through.
It´s a beautiful city. Trees line the streets and there are freaking impressive colonial - some with a gothic twinge- buildings and walkways. There is a nice pedestrian mall which is the main drag of the city and whilst checking it out at dusk the place was alive with people of all types enjoying the fading sun. The city feels really relaxed and the nice sunny humid weather we were welcomed with really complemented this. So I had a great time there, exploring the river, attending a halloween party of some friends that we made at Oktoberfest ( a few Americans so the Halloween-theme was uber strong) and drinking muchos cafés. Both the crew from Villa Allende and BA were there too, so it was great seeing everyone once again. Although everyone is different we all get along. I suppose there is something kind of binding being with people who speak your language and share a little of your background. If we were together is Aus it is doubtful that we would all get along, we wouldn´t have to.
I left the old Rosario last night on an overnight bus to Montevideo. Hell?, I hear you ask. Nunca. The words ´coche cama´ , meaning ´car bed´, resembling the most comfortable form of transport available, are a dream. I awoke only at the border to be given my freshly-stamped passport. As the sky turned pale blue there was a storm over the flat land to the south. Lightening lit up the sky and for some reason Toto´s ´Africa´was in my head.
And now, here I am, in the Montevideo Hostel. Hostelling International member, sí. It was raining before which has allowed ample time to upload some photos onto Facebook, enter Lattitude´s photography competition, write this blog, and disect Mr. Lonely Planet Montevideo chapter to see where I shall visit. There´s no rush. I´m here till Wednesday night, then I´m catching a bus direct back to Cordoba. Montevideo has so much to explore and I´m looking forward to the sun coming out so I can walk along La Rambla, the beachside walking path.
Now I may have a shower and grab some food to mung on. I´m meeting up with the dudes at the market at 5pm, leaving a free afternoon of goodness.
Take care ya´ll, thanks for the letters, they are very much appreciated and looked forward to!
Love love love. G
November eh? Is that absurd to anybody else? Things have been going swell here. As I wrote before, last weekend was spent in Cordoba. I went out with the girlies till 8am both nights, a very easy feat when your night begins at 2am. Then returned to Ascochinga in time to watch the game between Boca and River, the nation´s most important futbol teams. El Clasico is pretty similiar to the Melbournite´s Grand Final. The place stops and people are swamping to pubs with tvs everywhere. Watching from Ascochinga had a really relaxed feel to it. Somehow I have signed up to being a Boca fan, perhaps having visited the place on a crappy tour bus for a few hours whilst in BA...however the deed is done and now, supposedly, I am a life-long fan. River scored early and defintely were the better team, however Boca scored in the second half leading to a draw. How disappointing.
On Thursday we left Ascochinga (again) to venture to Rosario, a town 300ks from BA along the Rio Paraná. We came close to Rosario on our way to Iguazu, but didn´t pass through.
It´s a beautiful city. Trees line the streets and there are freaking impressive colonial - some with a gothic twinge- buildings and walkways. There is a nice pedestrian mall which is the main drag of the city and whilst checking it out at dusk the place was alive with people of all types enjoying the fading sun. The city feels really relaxed and the nice sunny humid weather we were welcomed with really complemented this. So I had a great time there, exploring the river, attending a halloween party of some friends that we made at Oktoberfest ( a few Americans so the Halloween-theme was uber strong) and drinking muchos cafés. Both the crew from Villa Allende and BA were there too, so it was great seeing everyone once again. Although everyone is different we all get along. I suppose there is something kind of binding being with people who speak your language and share a little of your background. If we were together is Aus it is doubtful that we would all get along, we wouldn´t have to.
I left the old Rosario last night on an overnight bus to Montevideo. Hell?, I hear you ask. Nunca. The words ´coche cama´ , meaning ´car bed´, resembling the most comfortable form of transport available, are a dream. I awoke only at the border to be given my freshly-stamped passport. As the sky turned pale blue there was a storm over the flat land to the south. Lightening lit up the sky and for some reason Toto´s ´Africa´was in my head.
And now, here I am, in the Montevideo Hostel. Hostelling International member, sí. It was raining before which has allowed ample time to upload some photos onto Facebook, enter Lattitude´s photography competition, write this blog, and disect Mr. Lonely Planet Montevideo chapter to see where I shall visit. There´s no rush. I´m here till Wednesday night, then I´m catching a bus direct back to Cordoba. Montevideo has so much to explore and I´m looking forward to the sun coming out so I can walk along La Rambla, the beachside walking path.
Now I may have a shower and grab some food to mung on. I´m meeting up with the dudes at the market at 5pm, leaving a free afternoon of goodness.
Take care ya´ll, thanks for the letters, they are very much appreciated and looked forward to!
Love love love. G
Saturday, October 24, 2009
in bloom
Alanis Morrisette is playing in the hostel, an acoustic version, and it´s INCREDIBLY soothing!
Ok so things with the girls at Villa Allende worked out fine. Turns out they wanted to stay in Chile for a few extra nights, little to my knowledge. I ended up spending two days at the orphanage by myself, which were very interesting.
Firstly, as I mentioned in my last blog, it was the first time I´ve been alone in quite the while. Initially it was a bit of a shock and the true size of the country was shown to me quickly. I suddenly felt alone in a huge country which doesn´t speak my language. I felt quite small. Another good part was that I got to interact with people at the orphanage on my own terms. People were very curious and friendly, because I was alone, and it is easy to open up to people. This is important to remember, I think, for travelling alone...you get to see things and meet people that you would have missed had you been surrounded by the comfort of company. A hippy woman, Elisa, generously lent me her bedroom for the time that I was there, and took to making sure I was ok. She gave me a bracelet which she said she had made, but I´m not sure because it´s perfectly done. She also gave me a clay cup which she made, just because. It was quite nice. Also I had some good chats with some of the older kids and played with the smaller ones. They are cute. There are also some terrors. I did get my hair pulled by two little girls, and it took a moment of time out not to freak out. If they feel your vulnerability they will continue to annoy you. You gotta have balls! I think I learnt this.
Now I´m in Cordoba. Often I write my blogs from here, it´s a great city and a great refuge from the (occasionally) boring country life. We come here to kick up our heels and in this lovely student town everyone else does the same.
The city is in bloom. When I first arrived here, the land was quite harsh on the eyes. Everything was dusty, there was no grass anywhere. All of the trees were bare and stood stark amongst the cheap student accomodation building. The colonial buildings were the only thing that you could really gawk at. But now, everything is blooming. The leaves are bright green and jacaranda blossoms are everywhere. La Cañada (the canal) that runs through the town is slowly filling up, and green grass is on its banks. The city looks cleaner and more appealing and interesting. Today was beautiful weather and as I caught a cab to an asado hosted by our rep, the smells and sights and sounds of the city sent quite the pang of happiness in my heart in the midday sun.
ACHH!!! I have to dash. Sorry to run out the door just as I was getting excited. I will continue this when next I have time!! Soon, tomorrow, hopesf.
Love to youse
G
Ok so things with the girls at Villa Allende worked out fine. Turns out they wanted to stay in Chile for a few extra nights, little to my knowledge. I ended up spending two days at the orphanage by myself, which were very interesting.
Firstly, as I mentioned in my last blog, it was the first time I´ve been alone in quite the while. Initially it was a bit of a shock and the true size of the country was shown to me quickly. I suddenly felt alone in a huge country which doesn´t speak my language. I felt quite small. Another good part was that I got to interact with people at the orphanage on my own terms. People were very curious and friendly, because I was alone, and it is easy to open up to people. This is important to remember, I think, for travelling alone...you get to see things and meet people that you would have missed had you been surrounded by the comfort of company. A hippy woman, Elisa, generously lent me her bedroom for the time that I was there, and took to making sure I was ok. She gave me a bracelet which she said she had made, but I´m not sure because it´s perfectly done. She also gave me a clay cup which she made, just because. It was quite nice. Also I had some good chats with some of the older kids and played with the smaller ones. They are cute. There are also some terrors. I did get my hair pulled by two little girls, and it took a moment of time out not to freak out. If they feel your vulnerability they will continue to annoy you. You gotta have balls! I think I learnt this.
Now I´m in Cordoba. Often I write my blogs from here, it´s a great city and a great refuge from the (occasionally) boring country life. We come here to kick up our heels and in this lovely student town everyone else does the same.
The city is in bloom. When I first arrived here, the land was quite harsh on the eyes. Everything was dusty, there was no grass anywhere. All of the trees were bare and stood stark amongst the cheap student accomodation building. The colonial buildings were the only thing that you could really gawk at. But now, everything is blooming. The leaves are bright green and jacaranda blossoms are everywhere. La Cañada (the canal) that runs through the town is slowly filling up, and green grass is on its banks. The city looks cleaner and more appealing and interesting. Today was beautiful weather and as I caught a cab to an asado hosted by our rep, the smells and sights and sounds of the city sent quite the pang of happiness in my heart in the midday sun.
ACHH!!! I have to dash. Sorry to run out the door just as I was getting excited. I will continue this when next I have time!! Soon, tomorrow, hopesf.
Love to youse
G
Tuesday, October 20, 2009
Villa Allende
Hello readers.
I find myself in Villa Allende, a town 45 minutes from the trusty Ascochinga. I am here to visit the Australian ladies who are volunteering here at the orphanage. Howeves, they are not here.
I suppose something went wrong in the communication somewhere...but they have been away and haven´t returned yet. They did tell me that they were returning last night. But this was not the case! I´m not sure whether to worry or be annoyed. I chose to visit so that I could spend some time catching up with them, get some girly gossip happening which I am well and truely deprived of living in a house with 25 men. And the fact that it can´t just come spilling out of me, or their stories spilling out to me, leaves me a little worn. Like I need to burst except I´m getting sewn up again just as I´m starting to crack.
However, today has given me ample internet time. I have been able to write a few emails, take my time. And write this blog.
It´s interesting suddenly finding myself alone in this country. Hell, it´s not even alone, really. But by myself for a few hours. The world seems a lot bigger! I had some lunch at a pizzeria, reading and writing throughout to maximise time spent.
I know that when I head back to the orphanage for the day there will be no leaving so I´m not sure whether to suck it up and just head back or whether to enjoy this solo free time without the kiddies scrambling all over me.
Things in general have been going well. It´s just ticked into the second half of the four months here, which is difficult to believe. I have eight weeks left here, which seems like a while, although when only the weekends are free, it´s a considerably short span of time. In these next eight weeks I endeavour to: visit Rosario for the jazz festival (and Uruguay on the same trip to renew my visa), visit Mendoza- wine capital of the lands- go paragliding in La Cumbre - capital of paragliding in the lands- , and visit more of the towns around the Sierra Cordobas. I think this is all possible.
It has become time to think creatively about the work we can do at the placement. The idea of a puppet play is well and truely beginning to take place, with the purchase of paints and cardboard and the creation of bamboo puppet figures. Reuben has written a few scripts, taking the Chicos on different adventures each episode. I think they will enjoy it. I hope they do! If not it´s a great occupier for us for the next couple of months anyways!
This coming weekend we are headed to Cordoba, for a few different reasons.
Barbara, the Lattitude coordinator woman is in town, and wants to chat with us about our placements. She is going to take us out for dinner which is exciting! It will be great to debrief with her about our time here.
Also, we met an old couple one day at a waterfall at Ascochinga who offered to show us a true Cordobese asado. How could we resist? We´ve been communicating through dodgy emails about the time and day of the feast, hopefully we can sort this out before it is too late.
And thirdly, it is Iona´s (one of the girls staying at Villa Allende) birthday on Sunday and we´re out to celebrate. A jam-packed weekend if ever I seen one.
On Sunday it was El día de las madres. Mothers´day. This meant yet another chanco was killed and we ate it for lunch. Reuben and I cooked his mothers´chocolate torte which was incredibly well-received. It was a bit shloppy serving it out, as there were no plates left. The three blind people present may have enjoyed it more, not judging it on presentation. I had a lovely relaxing day lying in the sun and reading A Fraction of the Whole. Powered through it really.
I suppose that´s about it for the meantime...I think my head will be more organised once these peeps show up. I will write soon!
Love G
I find myself in Villa Allende, a town 45 minutes from the trusty Ascochinga. I am here to visit the Australian ladies who are volunteering here at the orphanage. Howeves, they are not here.
I suppose something went wrong in the communication somewhere...but they have been away and haven´t returned yet. They did tell me that they were returning last night. But this was not the case! I´m not sure whether to worry or be annoyed. I chose to visit so that I could spend some time catching up with them, get some girly gossip happening which I am well and truely deprived of living in a house with 25 men. And the fact that it can´t just come spilling out of me, or their stories spilling out to me, leaves me a little worn. Like I need to burst except I´m getting sewn up again just as I´m starting to crack.
However, today has given me ample internet time. I have been able to write a few emails, take my time. And write this blog.
It´s interesting suddenly finding myself alone in this country. Hell, it´s not even alone, really. But by myself for a few hours. The world seems a lot bigger! I had some lunch at a pizzeria, reading and writing throughout to maximise time spent.
I know that when I head back to the orphanage for the day there will be no leaving so I´m not sure whether to suck it up and just head back or whether to enjoy this solo free time without the kiddies scrambling all over me.
Things in general have been going well. It´s just ticked into the second half of the four months here, which is difficult to believe. I have eight weeks left here, which seems like a while, although when only the weekends are free, it´s a considerably short span of time. In these next eight weeks I endeavour to: visit Rosario for the jazz festival (and Uruguay on the same trip to renew my visa), visit Mendoza- wine capital of the lands- go paragliding in La Cumbre - capital of paragliding in the lands- , and visit more of the towns around the Sierra Cordobas. I think this is all possible.
It has become time to think creatively about the work we can do at the placement. The idea of a puppet play is well and truely beginning to take place, with the purchase of paints and cardboard and the creation of bamboo puppet figures. Reuben has written a few scripts, taking the Chicos on different adventures each episode. I think they will enjoy it. I hope they do! If not it´s a great occupier for us for the next couple of months anyways!
This coming weekend we are headed to Cordoba, for a few different reasons.
Barbara, the Lattitude coordinator woman is in town, and wants to chat with us about our placements. She is going to take us out for dinner which is exciting! It will be great to debrief with her about our time here.
Also, we met an old couple one day at a waterfall at Ascochinga who offered to show us a true Cordobese asado. How could we resist? We´ve been communicating through dodgy emails about the time and day of the feast, hopefully we can sort this out before it is too late.
And thirdly, it is Iona´s (one of the girls staying at Villa Allende) birthday on Sunday and we´re out to celebrate. A jam-packed weekend if ever I seen one.
On Sunday it was El día de las madres. Mothers´day. This meant yet another chanco was killed and we ate it for lunch. Reuben and I cooked his mothers´chocolate torte which was incredibly well-received. It was a bit shloppy serving it out, as there were no plates left. The three blind people present may have enjoyed it more, not judging it on presentation. I had a lovely relaxing day lying in the sun and reading A Fraction of the Whole. Powered through it really.
I suppose that´s about it for the meantime...I think my head will be more organised once these peeps show up. I will write soon!
Love G
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
Back in Cordoba
Hello!
I am just back after a trip to the province of Misiones, in Northeast Argentina.
Just stepping off an overnight bus ride, I am quite the image of health, in dirty clothes, a little greasy, a little sleep deprived. Pero generalmente, muy bien.
We left sleepy lil Ascochinga on Thursday morning. The plan- what we usually do- is just walk to the road and wait for a collectivo (big bus) or fonobus (minibus) to hoon by and then we flag it. However our horacio (timetable) gave us some wrong details and we were left sitting there for a good hour. Time well spent, non the less.
The last week in Ascochinga was average. Work is thinning out, no more painting, and we are increasingly having to think on our toes as to how we can occupy ourselves. We spent some time cleaning up the rivers nearby- there is little concept of proper litter disposal here. There is a tip, which is at the house, and as it is open, all of the stuff blows straight out into the river. We did that for a few days, and it was great to get somewhere with it. However after a week it all might be back in the creek again. We´ll see.
As I´m the only woman there, it´s difficult to know what is expected of me. Juan keeps Reuben and Michael full of stuff to do, ´man business´, except most times I´m not invited. I think they don´t want to work me too hard but because of that I have nothing to do. It´s hard to know how to help as well, when there is no sign that anything needs doing.
However, whilst waiting at the bus we thought up some ideas we can do in the last months here for the Chicos. Although stated ours was a ´caring placement´it seems that the authority of the house aren´t really too keen for that, they´d prefer to stick to the status quo (no no no, stick to the stuff you know....)Activity afternoons for the Chicos, playing frisbee and doing craft work stuff and playing music together and going for walks are all things that would mix up their day. Reuben has started writing some scripts for some puppet plays which we could perform for them. Basically at this stage, anything is going to be better for them.
Will keep you updated as to how it progresses.
Finally the bus came and we went into Jesus Maria, then Cordoba. We were headed to Iguazu! We checked out bus times to Puerto Iguazu but they all leave at midday and we were an hour late. No fear, we just stayed in Cordoba that night.
I went for a meander around the streets of Cordoba, which is always a fascinating activity. The trees have got bright green fresh growth on them and the Cañada is slowly filling up with más y más agua.
We checked in to a hostel and got some food to make veggie burgers with. Mmm, fresh vegetables without salt/ oil. SO GOOD.
I checked the internet the next morning and saw that Obama had won the Nobel! HUZZAH!
This put me in a spritely mood to receive the lovely spring morning. I found myself the closest mirador (vantage point- thanks for that one Michael) and wrote in my diary next to the couple making out.
We left Cordoba bound for Iguazu, 23 hours away. It passed quite painlessly actually, as is the wont of Argentine buses (except, I will add, the pain of three Jean Claude Van Damme movies on repeat), and at 11am on saturday we were there. We bumped into the fellow Gappers from Buenos Aires on the main street- GREASH to see them again- and they were heading off to the falls. We told them we´d meet them there.
In a few hours we were at the falls. Holy Moses! Crikey! Cripes! Wow! Hooley Dooley! Antoin! All of these were appropriate. It´s difficult to describe typing, because it was such a crazy experience. There was SO MUCH WATER. It was so loud, and windy. A part of the boardwalk takes you right up to the face of the waterfall and you get absolutely drenched. I went in bathers and did some crazy dancing. Everyone there, on the deck, was ecstatic. People were jumping up and down, screaming, waving, dancing, all with massive smiles on their faces. It was incredible just to watch normal people walk towards the waterfall and suddenly turn crazy once they started getting wet. A great stress release.
Tickets for entry were a bit steep, $60 pesos, but I suppose they can afford to make it pricey. The prices for Argentines are the cheapest, then Latino Americans, then other travellers. We tried to broker a deal being volunteers in Argentina, but they didn´t want a bar of it.
The next day we went on a walk away from the crowds and out to a different waterfall. Initially the sky was looking a bit daunting, but it cleared. The mosquitos were pretty horrendous, so lucky the malaria tablet course is well on its way.
Although it was a bit cold, we went swimming in the pool under this MASSIVE waterfall and had lovely times. We also climbed up behind the waterfall and were in awe as all of the water tumbled down in front of us.
Afterwards we ate fresh bread and AMAZING alfahores, which are an Argentine biscuit which are the bomb. Very satisfying. Later that afternoon we did the tourist thing and went in a boat along the river, to see the falls from the bottom. That was crazy and of course we got drenched.
One section of the park was closed because the river was too high, so I suppose we were there at the most impressive time. It was crazy. The boat just headed into mist and you couldn´t see anything. The river was so strong as well. The engine was growling so loudly just to stay in the same place. Powerful stuff.
That night we cooked some pasta for the Buenos Aires dudes and drank Quilmes and Fanta. The high heavens opened and we were treated to a magical tropical storm with lightning and massive raindrops. It was incredible. Unfortunately our room flooded a little bit and all of Michael´s stuff got wet. Mine was ok but, which is more important.
The night before we had an asado, which the hostel put on. That seems to be the go here, that the hostels put on food for their guests if you pay more money. Not a bad deal, and the asado was very tasty. Not exactly ´all you can eat´, as claimed, but still lovely.
We headed off the next morning, bidding adieu to our Australian friends, bound for the town of San Ignacio, which is home to the best-preserved Jesuit ruins in Argentina.
We got there at sunset and my, what a sight. The buildings were glowing and it was pretty breathtaking.
The Jesuits who set up this place, created their own little civilisation with the local Guaraní people. In other missions they enslaved the locals and also brought slaves over from Africa, but here they constructed a community using both Spanish and native officials. Chiefs were regarded as powerful as the priests, and Guaraní people were elected into office to govern. The Jesuits learned to speak Guaraní language, and the Jesuits taught the Guarani people how to paint and play their music. They created their own freaking genre, Guaraní Baroque.
But it was still colonisation. I was a bit conflicted because it doesn´t make sense how the blending of two cultures could take place so easily. The museum described it as a ´utopia´, except really? It seems pretty hard to believe. They lived there for 160 years together, more than 4000 in this one complex, before the Jesuits got kicked out. The buildings then got taken over by the jungle and were only discovered at the turn of the 20th century by a writer/ photographer Horacio Quigoya. Crazy days.
There was a sound and lights show at 8pm at the ruins which we saw also. That was interesting, although not essential. There was a tour group of German school kids who were very cute. We got headphones to speak to us in English, in a lovely deep English-accented old man voice. Ahh.
The hostel we stayed at in San Ignacio was incredible, with a big veggie garden, an artist owner who was keen to help us out with everything, and lovely beds. We ate risotto and museli and rejuvinated in the jungle. Ahh yes.
So now we´re back in Cordoba. We´ll head to Ascochinga later today, after we´ve posted some letters and written blogs and maybe had some lunch.
It will be a bit difficult going back to life at the casa. Although hopefully I can use this freshness and new perspective from travel into doing some good stuff for the Chicos. There´s not that much time left to go either, so let´s get it happening!
Also, sorry to anyone my email account sent spam to. I´ve changed the password now so hopefully that´s all better. The product really does work though, the price is cheapest and quality is nice!!!!
I hope you lot are all well, where ever you are!
Take care, stay stafe.
¡Goodbye now!
xoxoxox
LLorlla
I am just back after a trip to the province of Misiones, in Northeast Argentina.
Just stepping off an overnight bus ride, I am quite the image of health, in dirty clothes, a little greasy, a little sleep deprived. Pero generalmente, muy bien.
We left sleepy lil Ascochinga on Thursday morning. The plan- what we usually do- is just walk to the road and wait for a collectivo (big bus) or fonobus (minibus) to hoon by and then we flag it. However our horacio (timetable) gave us some wrong details and we were left sitting there for a good hour. Time well spent, non the less.
The last week in Ascochinga was average. Work is thinning out, no more painting, and we are increasingly having to think on our toes as to how we can occupy ourselves. We spent some time cleaning up the rivers nearby- there is little concept of proper litter disposal here. There is a tip, which is at the house, and as it is open, all of the stuff blows straight out into the river. We did that for a few days, and it was great to get somewhere with it. However after a week it all might be back in the creek again. We´ll see.
As I´m the only woman there, it´s difficult to know what is expected of me. Juan keeps Reuben and Michael full of stuff to do, ´man business´, except most times I´m not invited. I think they don´t want to work me too hard but because of that I have nothing to do. It´s hard to know how to help as well, when there is no sign that anything needs doing.
However, whilst waiting at the bus we thought up some ideas we can do in the last months here for the Chicos. Although stated ours was a ´caring placement´it seems that the authority of the house aren´t really too keen for that, they´d prefer to stick to the status quo (no no no, stick to the stuff you know....)Activity afternoons for the Chicos, playing frisbee and doing craft work stuff and playing music together and going for walks are all things that would mix up their day. Reuben has started writing some scripts for some puppet plays which we could perform for them. Basically at this stage, anything is going to be better for them.
Will keep you updated as to how it progresses.
Finally the bus came and we went into Jesus Maria, then Cordoba. We were headed to Iguazu! We checked out bus times to Puerto Iguazu but they all leave at midday and we were an hour late. No fear, we just stayed in Cordoba that night.
I went for a meander around the streets of Cordoba, which is always a fascinating activity. The trees have got bright green fresh growth on them and the Cañada is slowly filling up with más y más agua.
We checked in to a hostel and got some food to make veggie burgers with. Mmm, fresh vegetables without salt/ oil. SO GOOD.
I checked the internet the next morning and saw that Obama had won the Nobel! HUZZAH!
This put me in a spritely mood to receive the lovely spring morning. I found myself the closest mirador (vantage point- thanks for that one Michael) and wrote in my diary next to the couple making out.
We left Cordoba bound for Iguazu, 23 hours away. It passed quite painlessly actually, as is the wont of Argentine buses (except, I will add, the pain of three Jean Claude Van Damme movies on repeat), and at 11am on saturday we were there. We bumped into the fellow Gappers from Buenos Aires on the main street- GREASH to see them again- and they were heading off to the falls. We told them we´d meet them there.
In a few hours we were at the falls. Holy Moses! Crikey! Cripes! Wow! Hooley Dooley! Antoin! All of these were appropriate. It´s difficult to describe typing, because it was such a crazy experience. There was SO MUCH WATER. It was so loud, and windy. A part of the boardwalk takes you right up to the face of the waterfall and you get absolutely drenched. I went in bathers and did some crazy dancing. Everyone there, on the deck, was ecstatic. People were jumping up and down, screaming, waving, dancing, all with massive smiles on their faces. It was incredible just to watch normal people walk towards the waterfall and suddenly turn crazy once they started getting wet. A great stress release.
Tickets for entry were a bit steep, $60 pesos, but I suppose they can afford to make it pricey. The prices for Argentines are the cheapest, then Latino Americans, then other travellers. We tried to broker a deal being volunteers in Argentina, but they didn´t want a bar of it.
The next day we went on a walk away from the crowds and out to a different waterfall. Initially the sky was looking a bit daunting, but it cleared. The mosquitos were pretty horrendous, so lucky the malaria tablet course is well on its way.
Although it was a bit cold, we went swimming in the pool under this MASSIVE waterfall and had lovely times. We also climbed up behind the waterfall and were in awe as all of the water tumbled down in front of us.
Afterwards we ate fresh bread and AMAZING alfahores, which are an Argentine biscuit which are the bomb. Very satisfying. Later that afternoon we did the tourist thing and went in a boat along the river, to see the falls from the bottom. That was crazy and of course we got drenched.
One section of the park was closed because the river was too high, so I suppose we were there at the most impressive time. It was crazy. The boat just headed into mist and you couldn´t see anything. The river was so strong as well. The engine was growling so loudly just to stay in the same place. Powerful stuff.
That night we cooked some pasta for the Buenos Aires dudes and drank Quilmes and Fanta. The high heavens opened and we were treated to a magical tropical storm with lightning and massive raindrops. It was incredible. Unfortunately our room flooded a little bit and all of Michael´s stuff got wet. Mine was ok but, which is more important.
The night before we had an asado, which the hostel put on. That seems to be the go here, that the hostels put on food for their guests if you pay more money. Not a bad deal, and the asado was very tasty. Not exactly ´all you can eat´, as claimed, but still lovely.
We headed off the next morning, bidding adieu to our Australian friends, bound for the town of San Ignacio, which is home to the best-preserved Jesuit ruins in Argentina.
We got there at sunset and my, what a sight. The buildings were glowing and it was pretty breathtaking.
The Jesuits who set up this place, created their own little civilisation with the local Guaraní people. In other missions they enslaved the locals and also brought slaves over from Africa, but here they constructed a community using both Spanish and native officials. Chiefs were regarded as powerful as the priests, and Guaraní people were elected into office to govern. The Jesuits learned to speak Guaraní language, and the Jesuits taught the Guarani people how to paint and play their music. They created their own freaking genre, Guaraní Baroque.
But it was still colonisation. I was a bit conflicted because it doesn´t make sense how the blending of two cultures could take place so easily. The museum described it as a ´utopia´, except really? It seems pretty hard to believe. They lived there for 160 years together, more than 4000 in this one complex, before the Jesuits got kicked out. The buildings then got taken over by the jungle and were only discovered at the turn of the 20th century by a writer/ photographer Horacio Quigoya. Crazy days.
There was a sound and lights show at 8pm at the ruins which we saw also. That was interesting, although not essential. There was a tour group of German school kids who were very cute. We got headphones to speak to us in English, in a lovely deep English-accented old man voice. Ahh.
The hostel we stayed at in San Ignacio was incredible, with a big veggie garden, an artist owner who was keen to help us out with everything, and lovely beds. We ate risotto and museli and rejuvinated in the jungle. Ahh yes.
So now we´re back in Cordoba. We´ll head to Ascochinga later today, after we´ve posted some letters and written blogs and maybe had some lunch.
It will be a bit difficult going back to life at the casa. Although hopefully I can use this freshness and new perspective from travel into doing some good stuff for the Chicos. There´s not that much time left to go either, so let´s get it happening!
Also, sorry to anyone my email account sent spam to. I´ve changed the password now so hopefully that´s all better. The product really does work though, the price is cheapest and quality is nice!!!!
I hope you lot are all well, where ever you are!
Take care, stay stafe.
¡Goodbye now!
xoxoxox
LLorlla
Monday, October 5, 2009
3:05pm
HELLO!
Heck it has been a long time and a few of you out there have been rather impatient to hear more of the good news. Firstly, sorry about my lack of blogging, but now I find myself with lots of time in an internet cafe and the afternoon free. Here it comes.
It´s been nearly two months here. An Aussie staying in Villa Allende, Rosie, just texted me and reminded me that in two weekends we need to leave the country to renew our visas. 90 days up already. Yikes! The days drift into eachother, with very little to distinguish them. Work in the morning, siesta, work in the afternoon, afternoon tea, break, dinner, study/ read, bed. REPETIR!
However it´s not boring or anything, it´s just lovely having the weekends off and being able to explore more of this country.
Since writing last we have done many a thing. Firstly the three Villa Allende gappers came and visited for the weekend. I have really missed having feminine company and it really lent itself to us dipping our tootsies in the stream under the speckled shade and chatting about Argentine boys and different experiences had. It felt so good to be so daggy. I am missing getting dressed up and going out and making my hair look pretty, as it´s been a while since this has happened. However, very soon I shall spend a weekend in Cordoba again with the ladies and all of this will happen. I do enjoy the boy company, certainly, but I really appreciate being able to be girlie when the opportunity comes around.
We ate asado that weekend- actually watched the slaughtering of a pig. The asado was lovely and, accompanied with vino tinto y coca (red wine and coke concoction, similiar standard to goon and juice) proved to be quite the hearty meal.
We went for an explore down the river with some kids of Marta and Juan´s kids and ate the ubiquitous ´fruiti gelatins´ jelly lollies. All was good.
The next weekend we decided to hit up Mina Clavero, which is a small holiday town which picks up in summer, but is nice and quiet for the rest of the year. It is surrounded by the amazing Sierra Cordobas, which run parallel to the Andes. They exist at Ascochinga too, but get more intense the more south you go.
On the way to Mina Clavero our bus stopped at the PARQUE NACIONAL DE LAS CONDORITAS (condors) and we enjoyed an amazing view with big condors riding on the wind current above vast vallies. The land was quite eeiry, in a way. It reminded me of a game we had growing up, Return to Zork. However, it was truely beautiful.
At Mina Clavero we stayed at a weird, newly opened ´Oh La La Hostel´. The owners, a Frenchman and an Argentine woman, had obviously poured a hell load of money into making the hostel, however it was empty. They were lovely and we had to ourselves the lovely new bathrooms and fresh white cotton sheets and drank from the communal mate cup and watched ¡DVDS! and cooked our own spaghetti and stir-fry and pancakes. A great weekend retreat.
We dined at a Swiss eatery which served torta selva negra (black forest cake) and I had a delicious hot chocolate. It played French folk music (Frere Jacques) and also served fondue. Another great find!
We visited an incredible ´Museo Rocsen´ which a French expat-turned-anthropologist set up, containing almost everything you could imagine. A giant (1600kg) cow, old rocks, a mummified Inca, extensive butterfly collection, sketches of the coloseum and Chateu de Chenonseau...Too much oddities to mention really. It was a great way to spend a freezing cold domingo.
Yesterday we returned from OKTOBERFEST (Fiesta Nacional de la Cerveza) which was held in another beautiful small town called Villa General Belgrano. It was probably the highlight of my trip so far. Argentina thus far has seemed quite monocultural, however this celebrated dance/ food/ beer/ costumes from all around the world. The festival runs for two weeks and every day a parade goes through the middle of town. They have a Princess of Oktoberfest, which is a big beauty pagent which we watched. The orginal princess is now old however walks around with a weird cape hood thing on and a big pretzel around her neck. It was all very bizarre, quaint, hilarious.
I made some friends from Rosario, who I think we will visit again when we go to the Jazz Festival in late October. Weekends are filling up very quickly.
This weekend, Iguazu Falls! We´ll be meeting up with the dudes from Buenos Aires there. My malaria tablets well under way, all is set to go. I have heard many amazing things about this place and I can´t wait to visit.
There is so much more I could write but I think that will do for now. I have to sort out some stuff for uni so I better crack to it.
Love for all! Don´t forget, you can send me letters if you fancy. My address is on my Facebook profile.
!Suerte!
GG
Heck it has been a long time and a few of you out there have been rather impatient to hear more of the good news. Firstly, sorry about my lack of blogging, but now I find myself with lots of time in an internet cafe and the afternoon free. Here it comes.
It´s been nearly two months here. An Aussie staying in Villa Allende, Rosie, just texted me and reminded me that in two weekends we need to leave the country to renew our visas. 90 days up already. Yikes! The days drift into eachother, with very little to distinguish them. Work in the morning, siesta, work in the afternoon, afternoon tea, break, dinner, study/ read, bed. REPETIR!
However it´s not boring or anything, it´s just lovely having the weekends off and being able to explore more of this country.
Since writing last we have done many a thing. Firstly the three Villa Allende gappers came and visited for the weekend. I have really missed having feminine company and it really lent itself to us dipping our tootsies in the stream under the speckled shade and chatting about Argentine boys and different experiences had. It felt so good to be so daggy. I am missing getting dressed up and going out and making my hair look pretty, as it´s been a while since this has happened. However, very soon I shall spend a weekend in Cordoba again with the ladies and all of this will happen. I do enjoy the boy company, certainly, but I really appreciate being able to be girlie when the opportunity comes around.
We ate asado that weekend- actually watched the slaughtering of a pig. The asado was lovely and, accompanied with vino tinto y coca (red wine and coke concoction, similiar standard to goon and juice) proved to be quite the hearty meal.
We went for an explore down the river with some kids of Marta and Juan´s kids and ate the ubiquitous ´fruiti gelatins´ jelly lollies. All was good.
The next weekend we decided to hit up Mina Clavero, which is a small holiday town which picks up in summer, but is nice and quiet for the rest of the year. It is surrounded by the amazing Sierra Cordobas, which run parallel to the Andes. They exist at Ascochinga too, but get more intense the more south you go.
On the way to Mina Clavero our bus stopped at the PARQUE NACIONAL DE LAS CONDORITAS (condors) and we enjoyed an amazing view with big condors riding on the wind current above vast vallies. The land was quite eeiry, in a way. It reminded me of a game we had growing up, Return to Zork. However, it was truely beautiful.
At Mina Clavero we stayed at a weird, newly opened ´Oh La La Hostel´. The owners, a Frenchman and an Argentine woman, had obviously poured a hell load of money into making the hostel, however it was empty. They were lovely and we had to ourselves the lovely new bathrooms and fresh white cotton sheets and drank from the communal mate cup and watched ¡DVDS! and cooked our own spaghetti and stir-fry and pancakes. A great weekend retreat.
We dined at a Swiss eatery which served torta selva negra (black forest cake) and I had a delicious hot chocolate. It played French folk music (Frere Jacques) and also served fondue. Another great find!
We visited an incredible ´Museo Rocsen´ which a French expat-turned-anthropologist set up, containing almost everything you could imagine. A giant (1600kg) cow, old rocks, a mummified Inca, extensive butterfly collection, sketches of the coloseum and Chateu de Chenonseau...Too much oddities to mention really. It was a great way to spend a freezing cold domingo.
Yesterday we returned from OKTOBERFEST (Fiesta Nacional de la Cerveza) which was held in another beautiful small town called Villa General Belgrano. It was probably the highlight of my trip so far. Argentina thus far has seemed quite monocultural, however this celebrated dance/ food/ beer/ costumes from all around the world. The festival runs for two weeks and every day a parade goes through the middle of town. They have a Princess of Oktoberfest, which is a big beauty pagent which we watched. The orginal princess is now old however walks around with a weird cape hood thing on and a big pretzel around her neck. It was all very bizarre, quaint, hilarious.
I made some friends from Rosario, who I think we will visit again when we go to the Jazz Festival in late October. Weekends are filling up very quickly.
This weekend, Iguazu Falls! We´ll be meeting up with the dudes from Buenos Aires there. My malaria tablets well under way, all is set to go. I have heard many amazing things about this place and I can´t wait to visit.
There is so much more I could write but I think that will do for now. I have to sort out some stuff for uni so I better crack to it.
Love for all! Don´t forget, you can send me letters if you fancy. My address is on my Facebook profile.
!Suerte!
GG
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